BorisTheBlogger is a corruption of my PSN (PlayStation Network) name "BorisTheSpider". Although I'm not an online gamer, I do play co-op quite a bit.
Presently, I am traveling through most of Europe and some African countries, and posting about my experiences
The stupid, losing, war on terrorism. This is a war that will not be won by either side killing the other side.
The "terrorists" are men and women, not unlike those that live here in the US, fighting for what they believe in. Their acts of terrorism, killing innocents, are, in their eyes, a rebuttal to what they believe are acts of terrorism by the US and Allied countries. Namely, but not exclusively, drone attacks that kill their targets, and other collateral damage.
Their leaders want every American dead. Most of their people are taught this is the solution. Most of American citizens believe the solution to the war on terror should be a crater where the Middle East used to be.
It is an overwhelming idea that it may be too late to try negotiate with your adversaries. There must be something they want, aside from every American dead. The removal of military bases in certain occupied countries? The US will spin their presence as invasion in the name of democracy? Most citizens in the world are completely naive as to all the many facets that encompass the poor relationship between the west and it’s allies, and “the terrorists” and their host countries.
Everyday, the news is filled with “we killed some of them” or “they killed some of us”, or “we killed some of them because they killed some of us”. It has gotten really old. Never do I read or hear that America have taken steps towards a peaceful settlement. A meeting at a secure location between the peace loving leader of America and the ruthless leader of ISIS, or Al Qaeda.
The solution is NOT to retaliate. Those who think this is the solution are stupid. The solution is to go after weapons. Go after suppliers. Go after money. Go after network capability. Go after recruiters. Implement passive infrastructure attacks to cripple capability.
There are sleepers on every country waiting to be activated. If the NATO countries continue to attack ISIS, and other extremist groups, then we can expect more allied dead.
As long as we continue to kill them, they will continue to kill us. The US and it's Allies can't kill ‘em all. Is this the Allied countries endgame? ‘Cause it'll never happen. Not without many more Allied lives lost. It will never end.
There is an old work anecdote: If you perform the same job the same way every time, should you expect a different result even once?
Killing and bombing is that job that produces only one result: the death of more soldiers and innocents.
In order to kill every American, the extremists have their work cut out for them. The Allies, however, have been unable to kill all the extremists either. More are born, schooled, trained, recruited everyday.
The hardest thing to swallow of that, in the face of lives lost, we must publicly forgive our adversaries, and open the lines of communication. Behind the scenes, the passive infrastructure attacks should continue. “The other side” expects this anyway.
Stop killing these people! If the Allies value human life, they must stop killing their adversaries. Killing will only get more Allies, and innocents, killed. The killing must stop! This stupid war will never end as long as either side are still killing.
Today is the day. Today, I'm gonna fulfill one of three life long dreams. I wake up brimming with anticipation. There something different about today, I can feel it. But, I can't hear it?
What's going on, or more to the point, what's not going on outside? I don't hear that normal honking of car horns, the collective tire noise of cars rushing to their respective destinations. I hear virtually nothing. As I walk to the balcony to see what is not the matter, I glance at my phone for some news from the Google Now app. The first local headline: Today is Ramadan!
I step out onto my balcony, and I am amazed at what I am a witness of. So amazed in fact, that I decided to create a short video of my initial experience.
Well, I need to stop being amazed for now. I gotta get ready for my meeting with destiny. As I reenter my suite, before I can head to the bathroom, the room phone rings. It's Eli calling to inform me that the guide has arrived early. I tell Eli to inform the guide that I will meet him at the scheduled time.
I felt bad after telling Eli that I would meet the guide an hour later, so I hastened my preparation, and met the guide a half hour after the courtesy call.
Shereif is a young gentleman. His accent will throw you. It's Arabic, but there's a hint of something else. Like a UK English accent, but not. Also, he dresses a bit more casual than your average Egyptian: Jeans and a Harley-Davidson of London T-shirt. Aziz is our driver.
We set out for the Giza Plateau in a foreign market Toyota van. As we drive across the Nile and into Giza, Shereif explains his vast knowledge of Egyptology and the Egyptian tourism industry. As we draw closer to the Giza Necropolis, Shereif asks if I have visited the Egyptian Antiquities museum. I tell him I have, but I couldn't see all of it due to the overwhelming number of exhibits and artifacts. Shereif quickly points out that the number of artifacts housed in the museum in Tahrir Square represents 1/10th of what the Egyptian government has authorized to be exhibited from excavations. As we continue driving, he points out some ongoing construction just outside the Giza Necropolis, describing a new, larger museum being built to accommodate the other 9/10ths of artifacts.
Before long, the amount of buildings encountered on the drive along Al Ahram became less and less. Equally, the number of vendor cars and taxis turned into private cars and tour buses. Soon after, there were no buildings, and only buses and private cars.
And then, there was nothing but three large stone structures in front of us. I was awestruck. Structures that have been here for millennia. In that moment, time sorta stopped as I looked through the windshield.
At just that moment, I began to feel the earth move. Is this the moment I had been waiting for my whole life, not knowing why? Has my proximity to the Pyramids created some cosmic connection? Will the secrets of The Pyramids reveal themselves to me?
A moment later, I came down from my '90s Tomb Raider induced fantasy trip to realize there was no seismic event, There was an NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) problem in the left rear of the van. Aziz pulled over, and we all got out to find that the [tread] cap of the tire had separated from the tire carcass (interesting choice of words considering where we are). Aziz was terribly embarrassed that this had happened, and told Shereif (in Arabic) that we should leave him to fix the vehicle.
I wanted to stay and help, with my knowledge of this simple task that we could complete quickly together, but Aziz was insistent. So as not to upset Aziz any further, and against my better judgement, Shereif and I set out on foot.
During our walk, Shereif decided to give me some pointers on the people I will meet on the grounds of the pyramids. First, he taught me how to say "No, Thank you" in Arabic: "Laa, Shokrahn", and how to prounce it correctly. Next, he told me that I will meet men, women, and children, and all will attempt to sell me something. He then told me that some will begin a sale by giving me something for free, and warned that nothing here is free. Another lesson he shared is that some will be very persistent, since they need tourist money, and they will do anything short of stealing to get your money. Last thing he mentioned is that vendors over the years have adopted western mannerisms, and will use these to buddy up to tourists.
All of Shereif's lessons were sound, and only a fool would dismiss them. So, we continued our walk.
The Pyramids seemed close enough from here, but in actuality, they were so huge that they were actually very far away.
The Pyramid of Khafre, and The Great Pyramid of Giza further away, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre in the foreground, with The Great Pyramid behind, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre completely blocks the view of The Great Pyramid, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre is huge compared to it's visitors below.
The Pyramids of Khafre and Menkhare
The Pyramid of Menkhare
The Pyramid of Menkhare and The Pyramids of Queens
The Great Pyramid of Giza. Believed to be Khufu's Pyramid. Still disputed to this day.
Wooden structure at the delta of The Great Pyramid of Giza
The Pyramid of Khafre seems so far away from the grounds of The Great Pyramid
Classic photo mistakes: Aiming into the sun, and forgetting to look at the camera.
Much better....uuh, Shereif? Could you hold the monitor a bit lower?
Still, The Great Pyramid of Giza is immense.
After taking these pictures, I decided to play a joke on Shereif. As I was dismantling my camera and monopod, I told Shereif "Here, hold this, and this, and hold this, too". Once Sherief had all of my equipment, I stepped away and yelled "Stop that guy, he's taken my stuff!", and then I ran up to him and pretended to beat him silly.
As we walk away from the site of the Pyramids to the Great Sphinx of Giza.
Al Haram becomes a bit of a steep road down the way to the area of The Great Sphinx. On the way, there was a man directing a horse to draw a cart down the road. The horse's hooves were sliding down the road, so the man had to direct the horse to turn and stop periodically so the horse wouldn't continue to slide down the road.
Along the way, we ran into those vendors Shereif warned me about, and I learned that some of what Shereif taught me was spot on, and some was less than perfect.
One guy tried to sell me some turquoise stones. He took my right hand and placed a stone on top of it. I said "Laa, Shokrahn", and I shook my hand to allow the stone to fall. The stone fell into a grate that was guarding a subterranean chamber. The man said "No Problem!", and chased his after his stone.
Shortly there after, a kid comes up with some packages of napkins and says "Hey man, you from New York City? I'm from Los Angeles. You want to buy this?". I said "Laa, Shokrahn", and he replied "Don't worry about it!". The kid said it so mafia perfectly, and with such enthusiasm, that I was completely impressed.
I was not allowed to go near the Sphinx. I wanted to read the tablet that lies at it's breast, although I already know what it says. Lara Croft read it to me back in 1999.
Uncovered remnants of the Valley Temple of Khafre
Ongoing excavation of the Valley Temple of Khafre
Panoramic view created automatically by Google Photos from images I had taken.
1st attempt at what would become a facebook profile pic
2nd attempt is much better.
Sherief and I met up with Aziz near the entrance to the city of Giza. The entrance to the city was equally the exit of the UNESCO Giza excavation site. There were Egyptian Armed troops at the gate, standing next to a foreign market, late model, Chevrolet pickup truck.
As we walked to the van, another vendor tried to sell me a hat. When I said "Laa, Shokrahn", he responded quite loudly, mocking me with "Oh Ho Ho, Laa Shokrahn!? You speak Arabi!?". I learned later that none of the locals pronounce both of the 'a' sounds in "Laa", but simply say "La".
Further into the city, we arrived where Aziz had parked. We then drove through the streets of Giza and back into Cairo. During the ride, Sherief explained that much of the city of Giza that is close to the excavation site will eventually be torn down. It is believed that there are other ancient monuments, artifacts, or treasures buried below the city.
Further along the way, Shereif ask me "Would you like to try some real Egyptian food?". "Please! Absolutely!", was my enthusiastic reply. So, Aziz made a stop at a local koshary place and bought three orders. We then continued the drive back to Cairo, but stopped again at a Papyrus shop.
Here, it was explained how papyrus is cut into pieces, rolling pinned, soaked, laced, pressed, and sunned to produce the paper that the ancient Egyptians used as the canvass for their art, as well as stationery for writing documents. This place was also a studio of papyrus art, and the art is for sale. Some of the art is strikingly beautiful.
While I perused the papyrus gallery, Shereif and Aziz were seated outside enjoying their koshary. I really wasn't interested in buying any art. It was pleasant just to behold the art. The studio's customer base is 90% tourist, and 10% local.
At the moment that it was time to leave the papyrus shop, Shereif told Aziz to take me back to my hotel, and Shereif and I parted there. Shereif and I exchanged facebook, and bid our farewells.
Aziz drove me back to my hotel, and I went up to my room to try my new food. Koshary, the way it is prepared in Egypt, is a mixture of small pasta, rice, ground meat, tomato sauce, fried onions, and topped with either hot sauce, garlic sauce, or both. As ethnic food goes, this was very good.
My first experience with a guided tour turned out very well. I was enlightened, and I made a new friend. My experience visiting The Pyramids of Giza was just like that: I was enlightened, and I made a new friend.
After seeing Age of Ultron yesterday, my evening sorta wound down to having dinner at the rooftop restaurant, Windows of the World, and snapping a few pictures of the Cairo night lights from there, and from the balcony of my suite.
This last photo of Tahrir Square with the Egyptian Antiquities Museum in the foreground kinda struck me: Here is a major Cairo landmark that is right across the street from me. "I'm gonna go visit tomorrow"!
30 April 2015
The next morning, I headed out across the street to the Museum. I bought a ticket at the booth, and no sooner do I step into the courtyard was I approached by a tour guide. "Hello! Welcome to The Egyptian Antiquities Museum. Would you like a guide of the museum?". A rather friendly gentleman, with a bit of a jolly demeanor, dressed in bright colored clothes, and with a tour guide badge clearly visible. "No, but thank you", was my reply, to which he responded "No problem. If you change your mind, my name is Mohammed, and I'll be right here". I noticed, as I was walking away from the conversation, that all the tour guides out here were in a sembly of a line, and were approaching visitors in an orderly fashion. It was as civilized as a taxi stand line. I was impressed.
I walked into the museum, and there were signs everywhere that warn not to take photos or videos, along with the standard No Smoking sign. Of course the place is jam packed with tourists, and some of them are taking pictures. I shouldn't be delighted to see when they are caught by Egyptian Police Officers and asked "No Pictures, please!". But I am.
There are no museum guards. The security in the entire building is run by the Egyptian Police, and with good reason: These are national, if not world, treasures. I'm happy to see the police presence. They are patrolling the corridors. They are standing at intersections. They are ever present.
The police regiment is overshadowed by the enormous amount of Egyptian artifacts. I walked through the place for about an hour, and I hadn't strayed to far from the lobby. There's just so much to stop and look at.
After that hour, I was approached by another man, not at all a gentleman, as I characterized the tour guide outside the museum. The guy was not groomed, had clothes that were poorly kept, and smelled terribly. His cap looked like he allowed a few trucks to run over it before putting it on this morning. I remember it well because it was in my face for most of my interaction with him.
"You need a guide.", he informed. He was not asking me if I wanted a guide. Trying to catch my breath from being asphyxiated from this guy's smelly aura, I said "No, Thank you". I turned, but and before I could walk away, he moved in front of me and said "You need a guide. If you don't have a guide, you're not gonna know about anything you see in the museum. Your visit to the museum will be wasted. Your visit to Egypt will be wasted. Your life will be wasted (No bullshit, he said that last line)". At that point, I was offended and perturbed, but I composed myself and said "A life of exploration is not a waste". Best I could come up with being short of breath. I turned, and walked away.
As I ventured to the west side of the museum, I found some crates with the return address "From Egyptian Embassy, Washington, D.C. USA" It was somehow comforting to see where these crates came from, since I was just at the D.C. Egyptian embassy no more than 2 months before to get my Visa.
As I walked through the museum on my own, and saw other people and other groups with guides, I decided maybe I should've taken Mohammed on as a guide. I had seen a large group of Chinese people being led around by an obviously Arabic gentleman speaking perfect Chinese. I recognized some of the words and phrases from my time on the Florida and it's officers.
I went back to the entrance, but before I got there, I found that Mohammed has been hired by a family, so I decided to press on on my own. I met another guide on the second floor. Although she was leading a couple around, she did confirm my observations about the guides in the courtyard. Guides are assigned as whomever is next in line. She was far more attractive than Mohammed was.
I was in the museum for about 3 hours, and was on sensory overload. The amount of artifacts and antiquities inside the museum is overwhelming. At that point, I had probably seen only ⅔rds of what was exhibited.
I really needed to leave. To return another day and view the rest. It's an amazing museum.
I went back across the street to my hotel, entered my room and found this...
It's cute, but the hotel knows I'm alone. This, incidentally, is the only photo I took the whole day.
The next morning, after I filmed the short video of the previous evening's lesson in daring-do, I went down to the lobby and my concierge, Eli (pronounced Ellie), called me over. "So, when do you want to go to The Pyramids?", he asked. "The Pyramids....oh, are they here in Cairo? I thought they were in the UK", I joked.
Eli, not being able to contain the fact that he did not find my joke the least bit amusing, reaches under the counter and pulls out this big book of all things tourist love to do in Egypt. He shows me pages about guided tours that the hotel can set up. A trip to the Giza Plateau, with a private guide, for the whole day (nearly). Yes, Yes, and Yes. "How does Friday sound?", he inquired. "Friday is perfect. Can't wait"
From there, I went outside, crossed Sahel Al Ghelel and went into the Hilton Annex Mall. It was my assumption that the mall would be filled with name brand stores and merchandise. This assumption stemmed from my knowledge of the Hilton company as being a luxury accommodation. However, this mall had 5 levels of local vendors with knock off bags and shoes, locally made apparel, and souvenirs. The bottom level has a nice enough cafe.
The top floor has a casino (which I did not visit), a McDonald's (also did not visit), and a movie theatre, which had recent releases of Arabic movies and worldwide favorites. Of particular interest to me was "Avengers: Age of Ultron". I went to the box office to inquire about the show times. The lady behind the counter pointed to a prominently displayed schedule.
Hoping that my best was good enough, I began to make gestures and broken words to describe that I wanted one ticket for Avengers. "What time you want?", she asked. "Oh forgive me. You speak English?", I replied, surprised. She nodded with a proud smile, so I asked for the 1300 showing. She showed me a seat map of the theatre, put an x on a seat that was about 7th row center. "Is this OK?", she asked. I was baffled, and not wanting to hold up the people behind me, I said, "Great. Thank you". I get to pick an assigned seat? I never experienced this.
After leaving the box office, a man approached me and asked "You bought a ticket for Avengers? You know it's in 3D? You will require 3D glasses. They are 30 Pounds." It was my immediate assumption that the guy was trying to scam me, because for one thing, if he was an employee of the theatre, what's he doing on the customer side of the box office? "I am attending the non-3D version. I won't need the glasses", I retorted. "All the showing of Avengers are in 3D. If you would like, I will purchase the glasses for you", he offered. "Allow me to speak to the box office girl myself", I refused.
I went to the box office again and the lady apologized and told me the movie was indeed in 3D, and that the glasses were 25 Pounds, or I can give her my ID to borrow a pair. What is 5 EGP gonna buy this guy? Why would he try to scam me for a measly 5 Pounds? That's 66¢ American! Anyway, I bought a pair.
I went back to my hotel to freshen up, but I wrote my new friend Deborah about the scammer. Took a shower, dressed decently, grabbed my 3D glasses and made my way back to the theatre. The ticket person tore my ticket, but only halfway and returned it to me. Huh? That's a new one.
I procededed further inside, looking for which movie house my movie was playing in. When I found the proper movie house, I was surprised to find the scammer was not a scammer. He was my usher!
"My name is Hasem. Welcome.", he said as he put his hand out to be taken in friendship, I shook his hand as he continued, "The movie will be ready in a few minutes. Please wait here", he said, with the same near perfect English that I though was trying to cheat me out of a mere 5 Pounds. Shorty after, movie patrons began to emerge from the movie's previous showing. Then a small cleanup crew went in, and came out a few minutes later.
"My friend!", Hasem called to me. "Come with me". I followed him in and he sat me in the seat I purchased. I haven't been ushered to a movie theatre seat in as long as I can remember. However, the seat was broken, so I sat in an adjacent seat, hoping it was not assigned to anyone else.
The theatre began to fill up as the show was about to begin. Then the light dimmed, the previews rolled, the "silence your phone" requests played, and then the movie started.
The movie was in English, with Arabic subtitles. I found it humorous that the jokes that were said onscreen had a delayed reaction from the Arabic speaking theatre goers. I was surprised to find that even with my very mismatched eyesight, some 3D effects jumped out at me.
Later in the flick, during the scene where Scarlet Witch cast a spell that caused Bruce Banner to turn into The Hulk, let loose on the streets in Wakanda, and Tony Stark calls in Veronica, the Hulkbuster armor. A battle ensues, as Stark tries to subdue the Hulk.
When the final punch is thrown, the film stops, the lights turn on, and I'm like "Fuck!". I'm thinking there's something wrong with the movie projector. But, nearly everyone else is getting up and leaving the theatre. There's no shouting in Arabic. There's no shouting at all. Now, I'm confused.
I figure I'll just wait 'til they fix whatever is wrong. But, as the movie goers return to their seats with food and refreshments in their hands, I realize "Intermission?" The last time I had an Intermission was during 'Pinocchio', and I think I was five.
Sure enough, as soon as everyone was seated, then movie started again with the Avengers all on the Quinjet, with Banner listening to Maria Callas portraying La Diniva singing "Casta Diva" from the opera "Norma".
The movie continues as the Avengers are able to work together to defeat Ultron's plan of world annihilation, and everyone in the theatre starts clapping. Clapping, as if The Avengers on the other side of the 4th wall could possibly hear them. The last time I was in a theatre that everyone clapped when the good guys defeated the bad guys was a showing of Star Wars, and I think I was maybe ten.
Then the credits rolled, we all got up, and as I watched, everyone, and I mean everyone brought their trash from the theatre and put it in the trash on their way out. The theatre was as clean as when we arrived.
I left the theatre feeling exhilarated (as usual), but also refreshed and delighted. These Egyptian movie houses have what American movie houses have lost: A touch of Class.
After my harrowing, near death experience in the 6th of October bridge freeway, and my observation of the highway from my balcony, I had the idea to rent a car and get out onto the road with all the other lunatics.
But in all my excitement, loneliness set in. As much fun as I am having in Cairo, I am having fun in Cairo alone. And as my bout of melancholy began to take it's course, I had an even better idea.
My idea was more like a fantasy. I know what the Internet is: It's a haven for liars, and all that is bad in the world. But, the world is just like that, too. The real world is just as bad as the virtual world.
So, I figured: If I yell into a crowd of people "What about love!?", and someone yells "Don't you want someone to care about you!?", then I'll know that there is someone out there who remembers '80s music well enough to report back.
So, if there's truth and beauty in the real world, there's a glimmer of hope for the virtual world. But, where to cry out? Well, that's where my loneliness turned to sexual deviancy.
I began writing my "cry out" ad on Cairo.craigslist.eg in "Casual Encounters". Once I began writing, I couldn't stop. The more I wrote, the more I wanted to write. Not unlike the deviants who browse the section of craigslist I intended to advertise in.
My first ad was entitled: "These Cairo drivers are nuts, and we can be, too!"
So, I'm in Cairo 'til the 3rd week of May. Originally from the Washington DC area.
I like driving into Washington 'cause as soon as you cross the 14th Street bridge, you have to change into maniac mode. It seems these Cairo drivers are doing it east coast style. Maybe even worse.
I went out for a walk last night along the Nile and just crossing the street is an adventure. Like a dummy, I climbed the stairs and crossed the 6th of October Bridge traffic. At the time, I doubted I would ever get across. Hell, there was a beggar slowly walking the bridge median with a cane, and I think he was doing better than me. I wanted to help him cross, but I think he was there to stop traffic and accept money.
These Cairo drivers are maniacs! I wanna give these Cairo drivers some DC courtesy (meaning: none). I wanna get out there where there are no rules (at least, it appears that there are no rules).
But, I don't wanna just drive aimlessly. I want the drive to have meaning and purpose.
So, here's where you come in: I rent a car (manual is my preference). I pick you up. We get out into the streets of Cairo for some honking, yelling, and dramatic close-calls. We park and have a nice dinner and conversation at a restaurant you would enjoy (no McDonald's!). We get back out there for some more white-knuckle driving. I take you back, or drop you wherever*.
I am American (with Greek/Syrian parents), tall, bald, with/ a slight tummy, handsome.
I do not speak Arabic (yet!).
You are Egyptian or of Arabic decent, around my age or younger (not teenage), progressive or traditionally dressed, slim, beautiful.
You should also speak Arabic and English fluently, a non-smoker, give good driving directions, and not scare easily.
Importantly, you should not be a prostitute. I use the word "should" instead of some other definitive word because I do not want to discriminate. I have no expectation of intimacy or extra services, and neither should you. This is just for fun, dinner, and pleasant company. If you are a prostitute, and have good conduct, then we should have a nice time.
Also, please no TS, TG, gay or cross-dresser.
Your pic gets mine (so you have a choice as well). I want to pick someone, not just the first one to respond. So, please forgive me for asking to see a pic before we go out. Don't send a pic with your hair down and then appear wearing a hijab or full burqa. Hijabs are cool, as long as this is who you are, in life and in the pic as well. If you dress progressively (hair down, contemporary clothing), and this is who you are, then this is fine also.
*Also, this is not a scam intended to hurt someone, so please do not turn this into one. Please, no scammers. I will not pick you up, nor drop you off somewhere dark and not public. Nor do I want to be directed to drive somewhere dark and not public. I have no plans to drive you anywhere dark or not public. This is intended to be a fun night of maniacal driving and delicious dining.
Thank you for taking the time to read this very long ad. I hope to find someone amicable to go out with one evening.
_______________________________________________________________________________________
Two women replied. "Sally" replied, looking for friends with benefits. She included a pic of a very lovely and voluptuous woman. I replied a bit unfavorably, not specifically looking for benefits, but included my pic in the reply. In hindsight, I figured that if I didn't want a reply like that, I should not have advertised in Casual Encounters, but as luck would have it, I never heard from her again. I guess she didn't like me.😟
Then I got an email from Deborah, and I could tell right from the first reply, she was perfect:
What a fabulous crazy idea ! I am an expat here from Australia as have driven once in Cairo it was definitely a memorable experience I lost a side mirror ( watch those mini buses they are very aggressive ) I nearly flipped the car exiting too fast o and hitting the kerb and I have a terrible feeling I ran over someone's foot !, Just a word of warning be very very careful who you go with there are so many scams and it's not as safe here as it once was , but other the that I hope you have great time
The second evening, I went for a walk along The Nile. No too far. Just along the east bank, up to the Qasr Al-Nil Bridge and back. Getting across the street was interesting. The pedestrians from the first day made it look so easy. I had no idea that, although I am experienced using timing to get across D.C. area streets, I found that these Cairo drivers use timing in order to evade pedestrians. And they pass you very closely.
For me, who was unaware of Cairo drivers timing me, while I was timing them, made crossing a bit more treacherous. I quickly learned that crossing into traffic is not unlike a game of chicken. If you fearlessly cross, the traffic will slow and/or stop, but you must still be courteous and wait for a good opportunity. As much as you have places to go, so do they.
Once I crossed the streets of El Galaa and Nile Corniche, I walked along the waterfront. The were people everywhere, horse drawn carriages, hot food and treats prepared by cart vendors, and riverboat captains enticing the crowd to take a tour on their open air boats with loud techno-arabic music and multicolor neon lights.
I turned back at the Qasr Al Nile bridge, and when I returned to cross the intersection of El Galaa and Nile Corniche, I looked up and noticed the trestled expressways of the 6th of October bridge, and found stairs leading up to the bridge. I also saw stairs leading down from the bridge on the other side. I thought maybe crossing the bridge may be better.
Well, I was dead wrong. The cars were mush faster, and I felt the pedestrian street rules did not apply. Plus, it was night, which would make it difficult for drivers to see me early. For some stupid reason, I decided to cross anyway.
Finding an opening took a while, and I was only able to cross one direction of traffic. And that's when I saw him. There was a homeless man walking against the traffic I just crossed. His pace was not much slower than that of a snail, and with a cane. He was actually walking the median, but in a traffic lane, and had cars, in what would be considered the fast lane, slowing and stoppig near him as he panned for money. The thought crossed my mind to help him get across, but I quickly changed my mind as I noticed he was doing much better on the highway than I was.
I found an opening, and continued across the bridge and down the stairs only to discover that my near death experience did not get me across either El Galaa or Nile Corniche. But after my near death experience on the 6th of October freeway, I found crossing El Galaa and Nile Corniche to be a piece of cake.
29 April 2015
The next morning, from my balcony overlooking the 6th of October freeway, and the streets of El Galaa (in front of the hotel, parallel to 6th of October freeway) and Nile Corniche, I filmed this short video chronicling my harrowing crossing.
During the video, I make an unusual observation that I'm still alive. Believe me, I'm happy to be alive. The night before was exciting and stupid.
So the cab drives off, and I take a moment to look around this city. There's an intersection outside my hotel that has a traffic light, but it really doesn't look like anyone is giving it any regard. The street is just one big ocean of old Fiats, some Chevy Aveos, some old foreign market Toyota vans, a few late model Geelys, some Mercedes' in there as well. And everyone's honking. I wanna think that half the cars out here are honking for no good reason, but it really looks like everyone just wanted everyone else to get outta their way.
The most interesting part is that there are pedestrians walking through this sea of cars and noise, and the current appears to part for everyone who crosses. It's a symphony of metal and flesh, of fenders and galabeyas, of bumpers and beards. And, it seems to be quite harmonious.
I take a deep breath to pick up by bags, and I immediately drop them. "What the fuck is that smell? It smells like....horseshit!?" And sure enough, I look down the street just a few meters away, and there's a horse drawn carriage, and just at that moment, the workhorse just took a dump. Right on the street. And no driver with a baggie picking it up. Nope. He's too busy making sure the horse's feed pail stays on the horse's head.
There were two carriages there. Both were feeding. Waiting for customers who wanna take a romantic ride through the streets of Cairo. The carriages were adorned with leather, red cloth and chrome. The suspension technology was an old style, made for a bumpy ride. Solid wheels, solid axles, and the carriage sprung by opposing multi-leaf springs. The driver, and his carriage, looked like they'd been in business for a while, so he couldn't have gotten too many complaints.
I decide not to breath in this time as I strap my packs to my back, and proceed into the property gate. There's a gate guard on duty, who smiles as I walk past. I walk through the automatic sliding doors to find an X-ray conveyor and a walk through detector. I'm starting to like it here.
I put my packs on the conveyor, and before I can walk through the walk through, the guard stops me and requests "Mobile?". "Oh, my phone? Good idea!", I said, as I begin to remove everything from my pants that could remotely be metal. Wallet, money fold, passport, phone, that's all I got. I walk through and "BEEP!".
"Oh wait. It's the belt. It's always the belt", I exclaim, pointing to my waist. But the guard ain't misbehavin'. Next thing you know, I get fully wanded. Sure enough, "I knew it was the belt!".
Just then, the guy monitoring the conveyor says "Yalla!", and his colleague joins him in front of the monitor. "What are these?", he asks, pointing to the screen. "Oh", I tell them, "That's a camera, and that's a battery". "Show me", the guard says with a less friendly tone. So, I dig 'em outta my pack. The battery was simple enough, but I had to show them how the camera worked. That's when a simple security check turned into a commercial for the Sony QX-30. I NFC'd the lens with my phone, and my phone viewed everywhere my lens pointed. "Aaaah! How much this cost?", they both inquired. Not wanting to be there any longer, I said "I don't remember". That's a survival trick I learned a long time ago. It seemed to fit here pretty well.
So, I close my bags, walk into the lobby, and I get in line with quite a few other parties also checking in. Then a female's voice behind me says "I can help you here!".
Fatma Abbass led me to a single desk in the lobby. She asked for my particulars and began crunching numbers. I tried flirting with her, but she interrupted me with her estimate for my stay. "I have a room on the 25th floor, which is part of the executive floors". She went on about the amenities and finally the price. It was too impressive to say no. Within 10 minutes, I was in my room.
My second accommodation since I left home. It was quite luxurious. King size bed, medium sized TV, small living room area, balcony, big bathroom with a basin bidet, long marble sink. Really nice room. I felt really special.
I went back out onto the balcony, and as I took my first few deep breaths out there, on top of the world from my view, I looked around, and said to myself "It's Cairo time, baby!"
