Today is the day. Today, I'm gonna fulfill one of three life long dreams. I wake up brimming with anticipation. There something different about today, I can feel it. But, I can't hear it?
What's going on, or more to the point, what's not going on outside? I don't hear that normal honking of car horns, the collective tire noise of cars rushing to their respective destinations. I hear virtually nothing. As I walk to the balcony to see what is not the matter, I glance at my phone for some news from the Google Now app. The first local headline: Today is Ramadan!
I step out onto my balcony, and I am amazed at what I am a witness of. So amazed in fact, that I decided to create a short video of my initial experience.
Well, I need to stop being amazed for now. I gotta get ready for my meeting with destiny. As I reenter my suite, before I can head to the bathroom, the room phone rings. It's Eli calling to inform me that the guide has arrived early. I tell Eli to inform the guide that I will meet him at the scheduled time.
I felt bad after telling Eli that I would meet the guide an hour later, so I hastened my preparation, and met the guide a half hour after the courtesy call.
Shereif is a young gentleman. His accent will throw you. It's Arabic, but there's a hint of something else. Like a UK English accent, but not. Also, he dresses a bit more casual than your average Egyptian: Jeans and a Harley-Davidson of London T-shirt. Aziz is our driver.
We set out for the Giza Plateau in a foreign market Toyota van. As we drive across the Nile and into Giza, Shereif explains his vast knowledge of Egyptology and the Egyptian tourism industry. As we draw closer to the Giza Necropolis, Shereif asks if I have visited the Egyptian Antiquities museum. I tell him I have, but I couldn't see all of it due to the overwhelming number of exhibits and artifacts. Shereif quickly points out that the number of artifacts housed in the museum in Tahrir Square represents 1/10th of what the Egyptian government has authorized to be exhibited from excavations. As we continue driving, he points out some ongoing construction just outside the Giza Necropolis, describing a new, larger museum being built to accommodate the other 9/10ths of artifacts.
Before long, the amount of buildings encountered on the drive along Al Ahram became less and less. Equally, the number of vendor cars and taxis turned into private cars and tour buses. Soon after, there were no buildings, and only buses and private cars.
And then, there was nothing but three large stone structures in front of us. I was awestruck. Structures that have been here for millennia. In that moment, time sorta stopped as I looked through the windshield.
At just that moment, I began to feel the earth move. Is this the moment I had been waiting for my whole life, not knowing why? Has my proximity to the Pyramids created some cosmic connection? Will the secrets of The Pyramids reveal themselves to me?
A moment later, I came down from my '90s Tomb Raider induced fantasy trip to realize there was no seismic event, There was an NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) problem in the left rear of the van. Aziz pulled over, and we all got out to find that the [tread] cap of the tire had separated from the tire carcass (interesting choice of words considering where we are). Aziz was terribly embarrassed that this had happened, and told Shereif (in Arabic) that we should leave him to fix the vehicle.
I wanted to stay and help, with my knowledge of this simple task that we could complete quickly together, but Aziz was insistent. So as not to upset Aziz any further, and against my better judgement, Shereif and I set out on foot.
During our walk, Shereif decided to give me some pointers on the people I will meet on the grounds of the pyramids. First, he taught me how to say "No, Thank you" in Arabic: "Laa, Shokrahn", and how to prounce it correctly. Next, he told me that I will meet men, women, and children, and all will attempt to sell me something. He then told me that some will begin a sale by giving me something for free, and warned that nothing here is free. Another lesson he shared is that some will be very persistent, since they need tourist money, and they will do anything short of stealing to get your money. Last thing he mentioned is that vendors over the years have adopted western mannerisms, and will use these to buddy up to tourists.
All of Shereif's lessons were sound, and only a fool would dismiss them. So, we continued our walk.
The Pyramids seemed close enough from here, but in actuality, they were so huge that they were actually very far away.
The Pyramid of Khafre, and The Great Pyramid of Giza further away, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre in the foreground, with The Great Pyramid behind, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre completely blocks the view of The Great Pyramid, for now.
The Pyramid of Khafre is huge compared to it's visitors below.
The Pyramids of Khafre and Menkhare
The Pyramid of Menkhare
The Pyramid of Menkhare and The Pyramids of Queens
The Great Pyramid of Giza. Believed to be Khufu's Pyramid. Still disputed to this day.
Wooden structure at the delta of The Great Pyramid of Giza
The Pyramid of Khafre seems so far away from the grounds of The Great Pyramid
Classic photo mistakes: Aiming into the sun, and forgetting to look at the camera.
Much better....uuh, Shereif? Could you hold the monitor a bit lower?
Still, The Great Pyramid of Giza is immense.
After taking these pictures, I decided to play a joke on Shereif. As I was dismantling my camera and monopod, I told Shereif "Here, hold this, and this, and hold this, too". Once Sherief had all of my equipment, I stepped away and yelled "Stop that guy, he's taken my stuff!", and then I ran up to him and pretended to beat him silly.
As we walk away from the site of the Pyramids to the Great Sphinx of Giza.
Al Haram becomes a bit of a steep road down the way to the area of The Great Sphinx. On the way, there was a man directing a horse to draw a cart down the road. The horse's hooves were sliding down the road, so the man had to direct the horse to turn and stop periodically so the horse wouldn't continue to slide down the road.
Along the way, we ran into those vendors Shereif warned me about, and I learned that some of what Shereif taught me was spot on, and some was less than perfect.
One guy tried to sell me some turquoise stones. He took my right hand and placed a stone on top of it. I said "Laa, Shokrahn", and I shook my hand to allow the stone to fall. The stone fell into a grate that was guarding a subterranean chamber. The man said "No Problem!", and chased his after his stone.
Shortly there after, a kid comes up with some packages of napkins and says "Hey man, you from New York City? I'm from Los Angeles. You want to buy this?". I said "Laa, Shokrahn", and he replied "Don't worry about it!". The kid said it so mafia perfectly, and with such enthusiasm, that I was completely impressed.
I was not allowed to go near the Sphinx. I wanted to read the tablet that lies at it's breast, although I already know what it says. Lara Croft read it to me back in 1999.
Uncovered remnants of the Valley Temple of Khafre
Ongoing excavation of the Valley Temple of Khafre
Panoramic view created automatically by Google Photos from images I had taken.
1st attempt at what would become a facebook profile pic
2nd attempt is much better.
Sherief and I met up with Aziz near the entrance to the city of Giza. The entrance to the city was equally the exit of the UNESCO Giza excavation site. There were Egyptian Armed troops at the gate, standing next to a foreign market, late model, Chevrolet pickup truck.
As we walked to the van, another vendor tried to sell me a hat. When I said "Laa, Shokrahn", he responded quite loudly, mocking me with "Oh Ho Ho, Laa Shokrahn!? You speak Arabi!?". I learned later that none of the locals pronounce both of the 'a' sounds in "Laa", but simply say "La".
Further into the city, we arrived where Aziz had parked. We then drove through the streets of Giza and back into Cairo. During the ride, Sherief explained that much of the city of Giza that is close to the excavation site will eventually be torn down. It is believed that there are other ancient monuments, artifacts, or treasures buried below the city.
As we walked to the van, another vendor tried to sell me a hat. When I said "Laa, Shokrahn", he responded quite loudly, mocking me with "Oh Ho Ho, Laa Shokrahn!? You speak Arabi!?". I learned later that none of the locals pronounce both of the 'a' sounds in "Laa", but simply say "La".
Further into the city, we arrived where Aziz had parked. We then drove through the streets of Giza and back into Cairo. During the ride, Sherief explained that much of the city of Giza that is close to the excavation site will eventually be torn down. It is believed that there are other ancient monuments, artifacts, or treasures buried below the city.
Further along the way, Shereif ask me "Would you like to try some real Egyptian food?". "Please! Absolutely!", was my enthusiastic reply. So, Aziz made a stop at a local koshary place and bought three orders. We then continued the drive back to Cairo, but stopped again at a Papyrus shop.
Here, it was explained how papyrus is cut into pieces, rolling pinned, soaked, laced, pressed, and sunned to produce the paper that the ancient Egyptians used as the canvass for their art, as well as stationery for writing documents. This place was also a studio of papyrus art, and the art is for sale. Some of the art is strikingly beautiful.
While I perused the papyrus gallery, Shereif and Aziz were seated outside enjoying their koshary. I really wasn't interested in buying any art. It was pleasant just to behold the art. The studio's customer base is 90% tourist, and 10% local.
At the moment that it was time to leave the papyrus shop, Shereif told Aziz to take me back to my hotel, and Shereif and I parted there. Shereif and I exchanged facebook, and bid our farewells.
Aziz drove me back to my hotel, and I went up to my room to try my new food. Koshary, the way it is prepared in Egypt, is a mixture of small pasta, rice, ground meat, tomato sauce, fried onions, and topped with either hot sauce, garlic sauce, or both. As ethnic food goes, this was very good.
My first experience with a guided tour turned out very well. I was enlightened, and I made a new friend. My experience visiting The Pyramids of Giza was just like that: I was enlightened, and I made a new friend.
Here, it was explained how papyrus is cut into pieces, rolling pinned, soaked, laced, pressed, and sunned to produce the paper that the ancient Egyptians used as the canvass for their art, as well as stationery for writing documents. This place was also a studio of papyrus art, and the art is for sale. Some of the art is strikingly beautiful.
While I perused the papyrus gallery, Shereif and Aziz were seated outside enjoying their koshary. I really wasn't interested in buying any art. It was pleasant just to behold the art. The studio's customer base is 90% tourist, and 10% local.
At the moment that it was time to leave the papyrus shop, Shereif told Aziz to take me back to my hotel, and Shereif and I parted there. Shereif and I exchanged facebook, and bid our farewells.
Aziz drove me back to my hotel, and I went up to my room to try my new food. Koshary, the way it is prepared in Egypt, is a mixture of small pasta, rice, ground meat, tomato sauce, fried onions, and topped with either hot sauce, garlic sauce, or both. As ethnic food goes, this was very good.
My first experience with a guided tour turned out very well. I was enlightened, and I made a new friend. My experience visiting The Pyramids of Giza was just like that: I was enlightened, and I made a new friend.
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